I've created this blog to share my crochet patterns.
Striped Stitch Sampler Blanket
Introduction
This is
really easy! It's just the colours and
the different stitches that give the effect.
Great for doing in front of the
TV.
COLOURS:
My colours were Lucy's from Attic24 and her Cosy Stripe Blanket. 15 colours were used, but you can use as many
or as few as you like. Colours changed
every two rows. Check this site for how I got rid of the tails
without weaving them in. https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/36b28de0-be3b-4bda-8640-0165d300c086preview/
YARN & HOOK:
I used Stylecraft Special Acrylic 8 ply an a 4.00mm hook. (But use what
you like
FINISHED SIZE: Width: 45 ins. or 115 cm includes
edging. 42.5 ins. 0r 108 cm without
edging. Length can be what you want.
Because of
the different multiples needed in the different stitch patterns some rows will have extra tr. sts.
at the end, but this isn't noticeable once you do the edging, and the easiest
multiple is 12 (twelve), therefore you will need to decide how wide you want to
make your rub/blanket/throw, or whatever you're going to make .
I did 168ch,
plus 3 for turning , but you can do 156ch, plus 3 for turning for a smaller
product.
Instructions are for the size I made. This is written in UK/Aus terms. For US conversion use this link. http://www.yarnfwd.com/main/crochet.html
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch chain
dc double crochet
htr half
treble
tr treble
dtr double treble`
fptr front post treble
bptr back
post treble
yo yarn over hook
SPECIAL STITCHES:
I call this Connected Treble. It sort of joins the Tr's together
making it a bit firmer. If you don't want to do this, ordinary Tr.
sts. will be fine.
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Fig. 2 |
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Fig. 1 |
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Connected Treble:
3 ch to turn.
Next, yo and insert through that
sticky outy loop (coloured blue) on the far LHS of the tr.(Fig. 2) then into
next st. and draw up a loop. (4 loops on hook) Yo and pull through 2 loops,
yo and pull through 3 loops.
Hope that all makes sense. I'd do a video but sorry, haven't got enough data!
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STRIPED BLANKET
PART ONE
Let's get
started! That is, as long as you have
read the introduction!
Chain 168
plus 3 ch for turning (171ch total)
Row 1: Connected Treble. (see Introduction) Work 1 tr into of 4th ch from the hook. (2
sts. as 3 ch counts as a st. Might be an
idea to mark the 3rd ch so you don't forget to work into it on the next row )
Work
Connected Treble into each ch to the
end. 168 sts. where 3 ch counts as a st.
Row 2:
3 ch to turn . Work Connected Treble into each st to the end , placing
last st in the 3rd of the turning ch. (
The one you marked...right?)
Row 3: Change colour Moss stitch
Ch 3 to
turn. * Fptr in next st., Bptr in next st. *
Repeat from * to * across row. 1 tr in top of turning ch.
Row 4: 3 ch to turn. *Bptr in next st.. Fptr in next st.* Repeat from * to * across row. 1 tr in top of
turning ch.
Row 5: Change Colour Granny Row
Ch 3 to
turn. . Might be an idea to mark the 3rd
ch so you don't forget to work into it on the next row ) Don't forget that when working in rows, the
part of the stitch you work into is to the left of the vertical post, whereas in
rounds, it is to the RHS of the vertical post.)
( Miss one
st, work 3 tr's into next st. *Miss 2 sts., work 3 tr into next st.* Repeat from * to * across row until 3 sts.
remain. Miss one st. then work 1 tr into
each of next 2 sts. Hope that
works....if not sing out ladies!
Row 6:
Ch 3 to
turn. Work one tr into each st and into
top of the 3 turning ch. ( which you marked, didn't you!!)
That's it
for now!
PART
TWO Rows 7 to 14
I strongly advise
to always place a marker in the 3rd of the 3 turning ch so you don't lose it!
Row 7: (Change colour) THE WAVES
3 ch to turn. (
Counts as 1 tr) Work *2 dc,
2 tr,
2 dtr , 2tr.* Repeat from *
to * across the row until 7 sts remain. ie 6 sts and the turning ch. Work 2
dc, 2 tr, 2dtr, 1tr in top of turning ch.
Row 8: Work into front loop only to give a nice line on the right side. If you don't want to do this/find it too
fiddly or don't want the
line....... that's OK , just go through
both loops.
Check the right side after each
couple of waves to make sure you didn't
go through both loops. This could save you some frogging!
HINT: Dc's will go in dtr, tr's will go in tr's
dtr's will go in dc's.
Ch 3 to turn. (Counts as 1 tr.) 2 dc, (will be in dtr's from row 7), 2 tr
(will be in tr's from row 7), 2 dtr, (will be in dc's from row
7), 2 tr (will be in tr's from row 7). Continue *
2 dc, 2 tr, 2dtr, 2 tr., *
Repeat from * to * across the row until 5 sts remain (4
sts plus turning ch.) Work 2 tr,
2dtr, and 1tr into turning ch.
Row 9:
( Change colour) This is where we straighten it out,
well almost, ready for row 10.
Working
into the back loops only.
This is easier than working into front loops...trust me!
3 ch to turn. (Counts as 1 tr)
* 1 dc into each of the next
2 dtr, 1 htr into each of next 2 tr,
1
tr into each of next 2 dc, 1 htr
into each of next 2 tr,* Repeat from * to * across the row
till 3 sts remain ( 2 sts and the turning ch.) Work 2dc into next 2 sts. then 1 htr
into top of turning ch.
HINT
(dc into dtr's, htr into tr's
, tr into dc's.)
Row 10: Treble
( or you
can do Connected treble if you like...I did )
3 ch to turn. (Counts as 1 tr) Work 1
tr into each st across the row. 1 tr in
top of turning ch.
Row 11:
( Change colour) CROSS STITCH
3 ch to turn. (Counts as 1 tr) * Miss
1 st and work 1tr in next
stitch. (See, It is a diagonal st.) Now
work 1 tr in the st that you
missed. (another diagonal st. and a
cross made!)* Repeat from* to * till only the turning ch is left. Work 1 tr in top of turning ch.
Row 12:
Cross Stitch. Exactly the same as
Row 11
3 ch to turn. (Counts as 1 tr) * Miss
1 st and work 1tr in next
stitch. (See, It is a diagonal st.) Now
work 1 tr in the st that you
missed. (another diagonal st. and a
cross made!)* Repeat from* to * till only the turning ch is left. Work 1 tr in top of turning ch.
Row 13:
( Change colour) THE FENCE Why the fence you
ask......well you will have posts and rails!
I didn't know what else to call
it!
This needs a
little explanation I'm afraid. If we do
' actual ' front and back post trebles they will make the cross
stitch look strange, and in a different
colour they are quite invasive into the row below, so
rather than that, we'll do it
round the iddy, biddy little post right at the very top of the stitch, where
the red crosses are. You'll be going in
through one stitch and around through the next, going through both loops. See photo below .
READ THIS
BUT DON'T START THE ROW YET! This
still the explanation of the first 3 sts!
Work 2 bptr,
then 1 fptr, then 3bptr, 1 fptr, 3 bptr, 1fptr etc across the row.
First st: Bptr: Yo , insert hook
into 1 st from behind, ( The first st
being the base of the 3 ch.) then from front to back through the 2nd st.
Second St: Bptr: Yo , insert hook
into 2nd st from behind, then from front
to back through the 3rd st.
Third
St: Fptr:
Yo, insert hook into the 3rd st. from the front, then from back to front
through the 4th st.
THIS IS JUST
THE EXPLANATION! IF YOU'VE DONE
THIS, CONTINUE FROM ( # ) in the row pattern.
Now
for the Pattern for Row 13 See directions above the photo
for the first 3 stitches
3 ch to turn (counts as first st) Bptr
for the next 2 sts, then * 1 fptr, ( #
) 3 bptr, * Repeat from * to *across the row until 4 sts remain. (3 sts and turning ch) Work 2
bptr around the iddy biddy posts, then 1
bptr around the loop (marked with bobby pin) and 1 fptr around the post created by the 3 turning ch.
Row 14: Take some deep breaths as row 13 was the hardest thing you
will have to do for a while! Although it
wasn't really hard, just different!
Normal
front and back post stitches
3 ch
to turn. (counts as first treble) Work 3 fptr, 1 bptr across row until 3 sts remain. Work 2
fptr around the next 2 sts and 1 fptr
around the post created by the 3 turning ch.
PART THREE Rows 15 to 24
Row 15: (Change colour) The Easy Peasy one, because you deserve it!
3 ch to
turn. (Counts as first tr) 1 tr in next st. * Miss one st, ch 1 , 1 tr in each of next 3 sts.* Repeat from * to * until 2sts remain (1 st and turning ch) Miss
next st, ch 1, work 1tr
into turning ch.
Row 16: Long Trebles
into the stitch in Row 14 below the space in row 15
(Insert
the hook from front to back under the top two loops of the stitch in row 14 at
the base of the space. Draw the yarn
(through the stitch) and up to the level of the previous trebles. Finish st as
normal. Make sure you make the st long
enough so that it doesn't pull the st from row 14 out of shape. )
3 ch to turn. (Counts as first tr) Work 1 tr into next st. Work 1 long treble into st in row 14 below
the space in row 15. *Work 1
tr into next st, 1tr into space,
1tr in next st. (3 tr made) 1 long
tr in Row 13, below the space in Row
14. *
Repeat from * to *across the row until 2 sts
remain. 1 tr into next st, then 1
tr in top of turning ch.
Row 17:
Granny row ( change colour)
3 ch to turn. (Counts as first tr) Miss one st, work 3 tr's into next st. *Miss 2 sts., work 3 tr into next st.* Repeat from * to * across row until 3 sts. remain. ( 2 sts and the turning ch.)
Miss one st. then work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts.
Row 18:
Granny row but a bit different!
3 ch to
turn. (Counts as first tr) Miss one
st, work 1 tr into the middle tr of the 3 tr group.
Work one bptr around the same middle treble, work
one more tr in the same stitch.
Continue
this in each middle treble across row
until the last group of 3 tr is completed.
Row 19: (Change colour) Fence with no rails (picture below)
3 ch to turn. (Counts as first tr) * 1tr
into each of next 2 sts, 1 fptr
around the next st *
Repeat from * to *across the row until 3 sts
remain. 1 tr into each of next 2
sts,
1 tr in top of turning ch.
Row 20:
3 ch to turn. (Counts as first tr) * 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, 1 bptr
around the next st .*
Row 21:
(Change colour) Popcorn (Please note : This is a 4 st Popcorn but you can do
5 or 3, whatever you like, the same principle applies!) 4 sts just saves
some yarn!
The
popcorn stitch is made up of a number of stitches worked in the same stitch and
joined together as described below.
This example explains how to make a
popcorn stitch with 4 treble:
When you want the popcorn to puff out on the front
of the work: (which we do)
1. Work 4 treble stitches in the
same stitch.
2. Drop the loop from your hook.
3. Insert your hook from front to
back under the top 2 loops of the first treble of the group.
4. Grab the dropped loop with your
hook and pull it through the stitch. Do not put yarn over hook.
5. Secure the popcorn st with one ch.
Diagram shows a 5 tr popcorn
st.. Couldn't find one with 4 tr.
Let's begin!
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts.
Work 1 popcorn st into next st. *Work 1
tr into each of next 7 sts, (making sure you don't miss the 1st
st, directly to the left of the popcorn) work 1 popcorn into next st. *
Repeat from
* to * until 4 sts remain. (3 sts
and the turning ch) Work 1tr into
each of next 4 sts.
Row 22:
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into each of next 3sts. * Work
1
bptr around the popcorn. Work
1 tr into each of next 7 sts.*
Repeat from
* to * until 3 sts remain (2 sts and turning ch). Work 1 tr into each of next 3 sts.
Row 23 : (Change colour) Another Easy Peasy One.
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts.
* Ch 1, miss one st, ( the bptr above the popcorn) Work 1 tr into each of next 7 sts. *
Repeat from
* to * until 5 sts remain. (4 sts and the turning ch). Ch 1,
miss 1 st, 1 tr into each of next 4sts.
Row 24: ( working one treble into the
space of previous row) Where it says Work 1 tr into each of
next 3 sts. , the 2nd tr will be in
the space formed in row 23.
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) Work 1
tr into next st. * 1 ch,
miss one st. Work 1 tr into each of next 3 sts. *
Repeat from
* to * until 2 sts remain. (1 st and
the turning ch) Work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts.
PART FOUR 25 TO 34
Row 25: (Change colour) Larkspur inspired
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into each of next 4 sts.
Work 1 long tr into the st in
row 23, which is below the space in row 24.
*Work 1 tr into each of next 3 sts.
Work 1 long tr into the st in
row 23.*
Repeat from
* to * until 3 sts remain (1 st, 1 space
and turning ch). Work 1 tr into
next st, 1 Long tr into st below space and
1 tr in turning ch.
Long Treble
(Insert
the hook from front to back under the top two loops of the stitch in row 23 at
the base of the space. Draw the yarn (through
the stitch) and up to the level of the previous trebles. Finish st as
normal. Make sure you make the st long
enough so that it doesn't pull the st from row 23 out of shape. )
long tr!!
Row 26: Connected treble in front loop (or ordinary treble if
you prefer)
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) Work in connected treble in the front loop only in each st
across the row.
1
tr in turning ch.
Row 27: (Change colour) Mini Basket st or Double Moss St.
We
will be working into the gaps, or between the sts for this row, as in Row 13
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) 1
bptr ( making sure you start in first gap)
*2
fptr, 2bptr*.
Repeat from * to * across the row until 2 sts remain. (1 st and the turning ch) Work 1
bptr in next st, 1 tr in turning
ch.
Row 28: Normal bptr and fptr Bptr go in bptr from previous row which on this side will
now look like fptr and fptr will go in fptr from previous row which on this
side will now look like a bptr
Or just follow what the pattern says to do!
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) Work 1
bptr around next st.
Work 2
fptr around next 2 sts, then *2 bptr, 2 fptr * Repeat from * to * across the row until
2 sts remain. (1 st and the
turning ch) Work 1 bptr in next st, 1 tr in turning ch.
Row 29: (Change colour) Treble or
connected treble
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) Work in connected treble in each st across
the row.
1 tr in turning ch.
Row 30: Treble or connected treble in the front loop
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) Work in connected treble in the front loop only in each st
across the row. 1 tr in turning ch.
See
photo below
Connected tr in front loop
Row 31: (Change colour) Clusters
This is a three st cluster
Yarn over, insert hook
in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw
through 2 loops on hook, leaving last loop of this tr on the hook. Repeat this twice in the same stitch so you have 4 loops on the hook. Yarn
over, pull loop through all 4 loops on hook (this completes one cluster).
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into
each of next 2 sts. 1ch, miss next st.
Work cluster into next st. * Ch 1, miss next st, 1 tr into next st, ch 1, miss next st, cluster into next
st.*
Repeat from * to * until 3
sts remain. (2 sts and the turning ch)
Ch 1, miss next st, 1 tr into
each of the next 2 sts. .
Row 32: Treble
Where it says work
1tr in next 3 next sts, work 1 st in 1st space, 2nd st in tr, 3rd st in
2nd space.
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
1 tr in next st, 1 tr in the 1 ch space, *1 bptr around cluster, work 1 tr in the
next 3 sts. * Repeat from * to * until only the turning ch remains. 1tr
into turning ch.
Row 33: (Change colour) Cross Stitch (See picture below)
Row 34: Cross Stitch
exactly the same as row 33
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr) * Miss 1 st and
work 1tr in next stitch. (See, It is a diagonal st.) Now work 1
tr in the st that you missed.
(another diagonal st. and a cross made!)* Repeat from* to * till only the turning ch is left. Work 1
tr in top of turning ch.
PART FIVE: Rows 35 to 44
Row 35: Change Colour Treble
Ch 3. (counts
as 1 tr) Work 1 tr in each st across the row.
Work 1 tr in turning ch.
Row 36: More waves. Please note...starting on the wrong side this time
Ch 3. (counts
as 1 tr) *Work 2 dc, 2tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr. *
Repeat from * to * till 7 sts remain
(6 sts and
turning ch) Work 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr and 1tr in turning ch.
Row 37: Change Colour Waves cont. On the Right side again . Work
in back loop.
Ch 3.
(counts as 1 tr) * Work 2 dc, 2
tr, 2 dtr, 2 tr. * Repeat from * to * across the row till
7sts remain.
( 6 sts and turning ch) Work 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, and 1 tr into turning ch.
dc's
into dtr's
tr's into
go in tr's
dtr's into dc's
Row 38: Work in front loop this time
Ch 3.
(counts as 1 tr) Work * 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, 2
tr.* Repeat from * to * till 7sts remain.
( 6sts and
turning ch). Work 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dtr, and 1 tr
into turning ch.
.
Row 39: Change colour
Straightening Up. In back loop this time Diagram below
Ch 3.
(counts as 1 tr) Work * 2 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr, 2 htr *
Repeat from * to * till 7sts remain.
( 6sts and
turning ch). Work 2 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr, and 1 htr
into turning ch.
Row 40:
Ch 3.
(counts as 1 tr) Work 1 tr into each st across the row and 1tr into turning ch.
Row 41: Change colour Moss stitch
Ch 3.
(counts as 1 tr)
* Fptr in next st., Bptr around next st. * Repeat from * to * across the
row. 1 tr in top of turning ch.
Row 42: Moss stitch
3 ch to
turn.
*Bptr in
next st.. Fptr in next st.* Repeat from * to * across the row. 1 tr in top of turning ch.
Row 43:
(Change colour) Popcorn (Please note : This is a 4 st Popcorn but you can do
5 or 3, whatever you like, the same principle applies!) 4 sts just saves
some yarn!
The
popcorn stitch is made up of a number of stitches worked in the same stitch and
joined together as described below.
This example explains how to make a
popcorn stitch with 4 treble:
When you want the popcorn to puff out on the front
of the work: (which we do)
1. Work 4 treble stitches in the
same stitch.
2. Drop the loop from your hook.
3. Insert your hook from front to
back under the top 2 loops of the first treble of the group.
4. Grab the dropped loop with your
hook and pull it through the stitch. Do not put yarn over hook.
Diagram shows a 5 tr popcorn st.. Couldn't find one with 4 tr.
Let's begin!
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts.
Work 1 popcorn st into next st. *Work 1
tr into each of next 7 sts, (making sure you don't miss the 1st
st, directly to the left of the popcorn) work 1 popcorn into next st. *
Repeat from
* to * until 4 sts remain. (3 sts
and the turning ch) Work 1tr into
each of next 4 sts.
Row 44:
3 ch to turn. ( Counts as 1 tr)
Work 1 tr into each of next 3sts. Work 1 bptr around the popcorn. *Work 1
tr into each of next 7 sts. Work 1 bptr around the popcorn. * Repeat
from * to * till only 3 sts remain (2
sts and turning ch). Work 1 tr into each of next 3 sts.
PART SIX Rows
45 to 59
I strongly advise
to always place a marker in the 3rd of the 3 turning ch so you don't lose it!
Row 45: (change colour) Clusters all in a Row This is a three st cluster
Cluster
Yarn over, insert hook
in next stitch, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch, yarn over, draw
through 2 loops on hook, leaving last loop of this tr on the hook. Repeat this twice in the same stitch so you have 4 loops on the hook. Yarn
over, pull loop through all 4 loops on hook (this completes one cluster).
3ch to turn (counts as 1 tr) Work 1
tr in next st. *Ch 1, miss one st, Cluster in next st. *
Repeat from
* to * till 2 sts remain. (1 tr and
turning ch) Work 1 tr into each of next 2
sts.
Row 46: Treble
3ch to turn (counts as 1 tr) Work 1
tr in next st, * 1 tr in 1 ch space, 1bptr
around cluster *
Repeat from
* to * till 2 sts remain. Work 1 tr into
1 ch sp and 1 tr into turning ch.
Row 47: Granny
( change
colour).
3 ch to turn. (Counts as first tr) Miss one st, work 3 tr's into next st. *Miss 2 sts. Work 3 tr into next st.* Repeat from * to * across row until 3 sts. remain. (2 sts and turning ch) Miss one st, then work 1 tr into each of next 2 sts.
Row 48: Treble
3 ch to turn. (Counts as first tr) Work 1
tr in each st across the row. 1 tr in turning ch.
Row 49: Grid
(Change colour) (There will be a surprise later)
I did centre tr so that the sts sit more on top of one
another. It's too hard to explain so
I've included this link. http://www.mooglyblog.com/center-double-crochet/
But you can do them the
normal way!
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Row 50: Row 50:
Grid Exactly the
same
3 ch to turn. Make 1 ch
more ch. ( this will be the first space.
So now you have 4ch) * Miss 1 st, tr into next st. * (Which will be in the
tr from the previous row) * Repeat from * to* till 2 sts remain ( 1 st and turning ch)
Work 1 ch, miss the next st, 1 tr in
turning ch.
Row 51: Wrap st
(Change colour)
3 ch to turn. (counts as 1 tr) 1 tr in next st. Then do fptr around the tr you just
made. Miss 1 st, 1 tr in next st. ) around the tr you just made. (tr's will go in tr's from the previous
row.) Repeat across the row till 3sts remain (2 sts and the turning
ch), Miss 1 st and work 1 tr
into next 2 sts.
Row 52: Wrap st
.
3 ch to turn. (counts as 1 tr) 1 tr in next st. Then
do fptr around the tr you just made. Miss 1 st, 1 tr
in next st. Fptr around the tr you just
made. (tr's will go in tr's from the
previous row.) Repeat across the row
till 2sts remain (1 st. and the
turning ch), Miss 1 st and work 1 tr
into turning ch.
Now for the surprise for the Grid
Rows!
We are going
to pretend that we are making a tartan blanket, and weave long chains through
the grid. The reason we've left this for
a couple of rows. is you might catch some of the long ch whilst working the sts
in the Wrap St row.
Choose 2
colours, different from the colour of your grid preferably, and make 2 chains
of 180 ch. Leave the end unfastened and
don't cut your yarn yet.
Take the
beginning of one ch length and weave it through the grid....over and under, ( I
use my crochet hook to do this) slightly stretching the row several times, but
don't stretch too much. You'll see when
it looks good. Undo any excess ch and
fasten off, OR make additional ch and fasten off.
I should
have used a more contrasting colour than the pale blue....it's better in real
life!!
Row 53: (Change
colour) Connected treble You can do ordinary treble if you prefer
3 ch to turn. (counts as 1 tr) Work
across the row . 1tr in turning ch.
Row 54: Connected
treble You can do ordinary treble if you
prefer
3 ch to turn. (counts as 1 tr) Work
across the row . 1tr in turning ch.
.
Row 55: (Change
colour) Double
Rib
3ch to turn
(counts as 1 tr) 1 fptr
in first st. Work. 2 bptr, 2 fptr across the
row till 2sts remain.
( 1 st and turning ch) Work 1
bptr in next st, and 1 tr in
turning ch.
Row 56: Double Rib The Post sts, will be
the opposite on this side....the fptr will appear to be bptr and bptr will appear to be fptr.
3ch to turn (counts as 1 tr) 1 fptr round bptr, which
on this side looks like a fptr st.
Work 2 bptr, 2 fptr across the
row till 4sts remain. ( 3 sts and turning ch)
Work 2 bptr , 1 fptr and 1 tr in turning ch.
Row 57: (Change colour) THE
WAVES
3 ch to turn. (
Counts as 1 tr) Work *2 dc,
2 tr,
2 dtr , 2tr.* Repeat from *
to * across the row until 7 sts
remain. (6 sts and the turning ch.) Work 2
dc, 2 tr, 2dtr, and 1tr in top of turning ch.
Row
58: Work into front loop only
to give a nice line on the right side.
If you don't want to do this/find it too fiddly , or don't want the
line....... that's OK , just go through
both loops.
Check the right side after each
couple of waves to make sure you didn't
go through both loops. This could save you some frogging!
HINT: Dc's will go in dtr, tr's will go in tr's
dtr's will go in dc's.
3 Ch. to turn. (Counts as 1 tr.) 2 dc, (will be in dtr's from row 7), 2 tr
(will be in tr's from row 7), 2 dtr, (will be in dc's from row
7), 2 tr (will be in tr's from row 7). Continue * 2 dc, 2 tr, 2dtr, 2 tr., * Repeat from * to * across the row
until 5 sts remain (4 sts plus
turning ch.) Work 2 tr, 2dtr, and 1tr
into turning ch.
Row 59: ( Change colour) This is where we straighten it out,
well almost, ready for the next row .
Working
into the back loops only.
.
3 ch to turn. (Counts as 1 tr)
* 1 dc into each of the next
2 dtr, 1 htr into each of next 2
tr, 1
tr into each of next 2 dc, 1 htr
into each of next 2 tr,* Repeat from * to * across the row
till 3 sts remain ( 2 sts and the turning ch.) Work 2dc into next 2 sts. then 1 htr
into top of turning ch.
HINT
(dc into dtr's, htr into tr's
, tr into dc's.)
That's about it!! I've run out of ideas.
You can start the rows
from the beginning and repeat 2 or 3 times, or just pick rows at random to
complete your blanket/rug/throw, or whatever you are making.
Happy Hooking!
